Fred in Maine
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« on: July 30, 2006, 04:55:29 PM » |
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Having ZERO mechanical skills, it is more than a tad intimidating that my Tank Urban Racer 150 came with some assembly required. Especially since it also came with no assembly instructions. YIKES!!!
When I took the crate apart, I saw something that confused me.
On the front wheel axle bolt I noticed 2 slide-on metal tubes. One about an inch or so long. The other several inches long. I thought these might be on the axle bolt for protection while shipping since the axle bolt was tied to a very rusty metal crate frame.
After some very frustrating attempts to fit the front wheel assembly into place , I ended up using the smaller of these 2 metal tubes as part of my front wheel assembly. I am not sure I should have done this.
To explain.....
When I put the front wheel on and started tightening the nut on the threaded side of the axle bolt I noticed that the fork (cover) was bending inward quite a lot. It seemed like if I continued to tighten, either the fork might crack or, I don't know, the brake caliper might even twist slightly out of alignment.
So I took everything apart and reassembled, this time slipping the smaller of the 2 metals tubes I originally found on the axle bolt (as shipped) onto the axle bolt on the side opposite from where the speedometer assembly fits neatly.
This made it very difficult to squeeze the entire assembly (bolt running through all) into place between the forks. Everything on the axle bolt (spacer tube, wheel, speedometer) came to a total length of about 1/4 inch too long. However, I managed to muscle it all into place and tightened the axle bolt securely.
Should I have used this simple metal tube as a spacer? Or was this merely a shipping device to protect the axle bolt? Is there a better bushing that might not have arrived with my scooter?
Thanks for your help. Fred in Maine
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« on: July 30, 2006, 04:55:29 PM » |
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Sparky
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2006, 06:56:31 PM » |
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you did the right thing, don't worry. there is supposed to be a spacer on the axle bolt, it's machined out of heavy steel and may have a shoulder on it to slip inside the wheel slightly as it fits on the axle. Most of the time it's shipped on the speedo cable, but yours was on the axle bolt, and they sent 2 ?!
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Sparky Master Mechanic, Electrician, Tank Urban Touring 250 DE owner
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds."
"Without Deviation from the Norm, Progress is not Possible."
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2006, 06:56:31 PM » |
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Fred in Maine
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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2006, 03:24:20 AM » |
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Thanks Sparky. Yes, they sent two, neither had a shoulder. And both pieces were entirely different lengths. This really confused me.
I am guessing that the MSO and title papers will be coming in the mail as they were not with the scooter when it arrived. Is this how it is normally done? Thanks
Fred
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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2006, 03:24:20 AM » |
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Sparky
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« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2006, 04:08:56 AM » |
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the MSO is always shipped separately, so that no-one can steal the scooter off the truck and go register it.
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Sparky Master Mechanic, Electrician, Tank Urban Touring 250 DE owner
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds."
"Without Deviation from the Norm, Progress is not Possible."
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ScooterForumOnline
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« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2006, 04:08:56 AM » |
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Fred in Maine
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« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2006, 02:17:37 PM » |
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That does make sense. Thanks again Sparky. I'm giving the battery a deep cycle slow charge right now. Tomorrow I should be able to hook it up, put in some gas and try to get it to start.
I read somewhere that it takes 10-15 tries to get a new scooter started the first time. Is this because it takes some cranking to get the gas through the system?
I also read that using the electronic start might drain the battery so it is best to use the foot crank. Someone suggested that I simply jumper cable the battery to my truck and use the electric start. Does this make sense to you?
Fred
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Sparky
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« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2006, 04:58:34 PM » |
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yup, it makes sense. Jump start it with yer truck,(with the engine off) and use the electric start all the time, the kickstarter is a bitch, and won't work 1/2 the time.
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Sparky Master Mechanic, Electrician, Tank Urban Touring 250 DE owner
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds."
"Without Deviation from the Norm, Progress is not Possible."
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Sparky
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« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2006, 05:03:41 PM » |
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Here's a link to a guy's set up of two racers here in Minnesota, very cool pictures and instructions. http://www.americinnwillmar.com/rvpictures.htm
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Sparky Master Mechanic, Electrician, Tank Urban Touring 250 DE owner
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds."
"Without Deviation from the Norm, Progress is not Possible."
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Fred in Maine
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« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2006, 05:28:48 PM » |
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Hey Sparky, WOW thanks for that link. Great photos. I'm thinking I also should probably change the oil to a good synthetic. I will let you know how I do starting my Tank Racer. Thanks again!!!
Fred
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Sparky
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2006, 06:32:06 PM » |
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Break-in the motor with a petroleum based oil, then switch to a synthetic blend at 300km. Pure synthetics are too "slick" for these engines.
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Sparky Master Mechanic, Electrician, Tank Urban Touring 250 DE owner
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds."
"Without Deviation from the Norm, Progress is not Possible."
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Fred in Maine
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« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2006, 05:16:49 PM » |
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Thanks, I'll use a blend when changing oil. I read that scooters don't have alternators like cars, so the battery does not get recharged. Could this be true? Will I really need to take out the battery and hook it up to my charger? If so, about how often?
Fred
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